SEMA SHOW Hummer H3...sexy....Cool exotic cars & rims
Originally uploaded by airgap
This is from the Sema Show, a Hummer H3. It looks like a Terminator edition that Arnold should be standing near!
I guess with Hummer on the brink of being extinct, GM is pulling out all the stops. It is amazing what a little bailout money will do! I can hear the meeting in the board room, "Boss, since we received the extra money, can I make the robotic Hummer now???"
Toyota Hilux Engine - A Brief History
By Chris Hamilton
The Toyota Hilux engine has changed many times since 1968 when the Hilux first debuted. Back then, it was powered by a small, 1.5 litre 4-cylinder. It has since evolved many times over with some models maintaining a 4-cylinder engine although now they're bigger, more powerful and even turbo or diesel powered (or both) while some models made a jump to larger displacement V6 engines. This article will provide a brief timeline into the history of the Toyota Hilux engine.
Toyota R Engine
The R engine was the first family of engines to grace the Toyota Hilux. The R engine was a 4-cylinder petrol (gasoline) that was used in various forms from 1968 to 1995. The 2R, 3R, 8R, 8R-C, 8R-E, 12R, 18R, 18R-C, 18R-E, 20R, 22R, 22R-E, and 22R-TE were all the variations of the R family of engines to be used in the Hilux. In the beginning, the 2R was a 1.5 litre that grew and had various factory modifications through the 2.4 litre 22R-E used in 1995. The 22R has a reputation as one of the best Toyota Hilux engine ever used for longevity and reliability of easily being able to clock 500,000 kilometers (300,000 miles).
Toyota VZ Engine
The VZ was the first family of V6 engines ever used in the Toyota Hilux. The VZ engine ran on petrol (gasoline) and all versions featured electronic fuel injection. The Hilux made use of the 3VZ from 1988 to 1995 at which point it used the 5VZ. Displacement increased from 3.0 to 3.4 litres and power jumped from 112 kW (150 hp) to 142 (190 hp). The 5VZ (or the 5VZ-FE to be exact) has been touted as the best V6 Toyota Hilux engine ever used for its reliability, light weight, and excellent fuel economy. Hilux owners with the 3VZ engine often seek out a 5VZ to install rather than rebuilding or replacing a 3VZ with problems or high kilometers.
Toyota RZ Engine
In 1996, some models of Hilux went back to 4-cylinders with the RZ. The RZ was a family of 4-cylinder engines that consisted of the 1RZ-E, 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE. Their displacements were 2.0 litres, 2.4 litres, and 2.7 litres respectively and they produced 78 kW (105 hp), 106 kW (142 hp), and 112 kW (150 hp) also respectively. The 1RZ saw limited production mostly in Japan and select parts of Asia. The 2RZ first came to life in 1995 and ceased production in 2004 (2004 being the last model year this engine was used in a Hilux). Like the 2RZ, the 3RZ also came to life in 1995 and it's still in use to this day.
You can review a thorough history of the Toyota Hilux engine as well as gain knowledge for reading Toyota Hilux engine numbers and it's also recommended to read about all diesel and petrol (gasoline)
P0171 and P0174 Codes - Don't Replace an Oxygen Sensor Before Reading This
By Dennis Bandy
So your car's CEL (Check Engine Light) is on and you had the codes scanned at a local parts store. Your car has either a P0171, P0174 lean fault code or both stored in the computer, these codes are based on Oxygen Sensor (O-2) readings. A lean code or codes indicate that there's too much oxygen in the exhaust. Remember parts stores have employees that have good intentions but they may not have the experience necessary to interpret what the trouble codes really mean. These codes are based on oxygen measurements in the exhaust. A common mistake with lean codes is to replace the oxygen sensors. This could be a very expensive mistake that will not fix the problem. Especially if both codes are present, because the chance of both O-2 sensors failing at the same time is very unlikely.
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Most likely the cause is a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak can be caused from a vacuum hose, intake gasket or maybe even a leak in the air intake hose from the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Listen for a hissing sound that may lead you to the source of the problem. Some technicians will use a propane bottle with a hose attachment to help pinpoint vacuum leaks. With today's computers it's not quite as easy to check for vacuum leaks this way because the ECU (Electronic Control Unit) will compensate quickly for the added fuel and a change in idle is harder to notice. Oxygen sensor readings can be monitored with a scan tool while checking for leaks with propane, by looking for increased readings when enriching the mixture. Another way technicians can check for vacuum leaks is with a smoke test. By introducing smoke into a vacuum hose on the engine, the leak will be revealed when the smoke escapes from the problem area.
Aftermarket air filters that use oil on the element can sometimes damage the MAF. Over oiling the air filter may allow some excess to get on the MAF sensor wire or element. This can alter the reading, fooling the ECU into seeing more or less air flow therefore changing the air/fuel mixture incorrectly. I once worked on a car that would not start that had a problem with a MAF. When looking at the wire in the MAF, there was a burned piece of trash that made it's way past the air filter. After cleaning the sensor the car ran perfectly. The ash that was on the MAF sensor wire was altering the reading by enriching the mixture so much that the car could not run. After talking with the customer, he said the air filter was just changed. This was obviously when some trash got into the air intake hose that settled on the hot wire of the MAF.
Fuel Pressure could also cause a lean condition. If the fuel filter is clogged or the fuel pump pressure is low, there could be higher level of oxygen in the exhaust also. Most of the time though, the ECU will compensate for the reduced fuel volume. So this is one of the least likely causes of a lean code.
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About the Author. Hi I'm Dennis Bandy, thanks for reading. I've been an ASE Master Auto Technician for over 20 years and have also sold professional auto tools since 2005. I am in a unique position to help readers with automotive repair related topics since I've had personal hands on experience with many auto repairs and automotive specialty tools. This is not a hobby for me, this is my business. Your feedback is really appreciated, if you thought this article was helpful or informative, please rate it below (thank you in advance).
Half the battle when it comes to auto repair is having the right tools, that's why we have supplied name-brand automotive tools (like OTC, Makita, Ingersoll), shop supplies and automotive shop equipment at discount prices, at DenLors Tools since 2005, many readers put us on their favorites list and visit our site when auto specialty tool needs arise, we hope you do the same.
I'm, too sexy for this car
Originally uploaded by Maxx Manboeuf
Sexy Car Show girls show off new car. I see why these car shows always create a buzz!
Auto Repossessions are at an all time high, but the Repo Man is getting left out in the cold! Customers are returning their cars, trucks, and SUV's at an alarming rate, but are bringing them to the dealerships to drop them off voluntarily! It will still show as a Repossession on your credit, but what are customers to do when they cannot afford the car note anymore.
Here are a few tips that may help someone that is going through this dilemma:
1. Make sure to call the lender and try to work something out. You never know until you call, but this is the first thing to consider. The lender really does not want to repossess your car because they will most likely take a loss when they sell it--and remember, you get charged the losses taken when it sells!
2. Try to trade your car for something more affordable. Remember to check your ego at the gate and ask your salesman for help in finding something that will accomplish your goals. It may not be what you WANT right now, but may be what you NEED! Don't take that the wrong way, just trying to help.
3. Advertise your car in the newspaper or Internet to try and sell it to get out from under the notes. Here is something creative--if you get an offer that is within $3000-$4000 of payoff, go buy a car with a cheaper note and apply the rebate to your payoff to get the title cleared so you can sell. Make sure when you buy your new car that you get a car payment that is manageable.
These are just a few ideas to keep you out of Repossession status. Don't be afraid to get creative because times like these call for creative thinkers. New Car and Used Car Sales are going up each month as well so there is light at the end of the tunnel. And, Never say that it cant get any worse because it can always get worse!
Car Heater Not Working - Blowing Cold Air!
By Dennis Bandy
There are several reasons why your car's heater may be blowing cold air, instead of heat. It is important to understand how the heater works in your car before you can begin to try to diagnose why it is not working. First, there is NOT an electric heater element in the heater system in automobiles, like in portable heaters used in the home. The part that transfers heat into the passenger compartment is called a heater core. A heater core can be thought of as a miniature radiator. The car engine's coolant flows through the heater core while the fan (also called a blower), blows air through the heater core fins. When air blows through the heater core fins, it is warmed, therefore warming the passenger compartment.
Start by checking the coolant. As we already said coolant is what warms the heater core. So if the coolant is low, there may not be a sufficient amount of warmth to transfer heat to the air in the passenger compartment. Since it 's cold outside, low coolant may not effect the operating temperature of the engine significantly, so you won't be alerted to a coolant problem by the temperature gage on the instrument panel. Once the coolant is full, feel the heater hoses that go through the firewall. With the engine at normal operating temperature, BOTH of the heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one is hot, this indicates there is is a blockage in the heater core or there is air trapped in the heater core. Using a Lisle coolant funnel is helpful in purging the air from the cooling system. If the coolant is really brown, has been neglected, or if "stop leak" has been used at some point, the heater core could be stopped up. The blockage can sometimes be unstopped by removing the heater hoses and using a garden hose with a sprayer to flush the heater core out. If neither of the hoses are hot to the touch, there could also be a malfunctioning heater control valve, if used on the model you're working on. Check for presence of a heater control valve by following the heater hoses back to the engine. Sometimes, a vacuum line could have a break causing there to be no vacuum to operate the valve. Also it should be noted that if this is your first winter with this car (and you're unfamiliar with the car's repair history), the previous owner could have by-passed the heater core because of a leak. When a heater core leaks, usually they wet the passenger side floorboard. The labor cost to change heater cores is usually expensive, so sometimes people will loop the heater hoses and by-pass a leaking heater core instead of repairing it properly.
Next check for proper airflow. After you're sure the heater core is getting hot water flow, read the following information. Doors within the heater case are either controlled by electric actuators, cables or vacuum motors. Adjust the heat control to both extremes while listening for movement of the blend door. With a cable operated heater door it's easiest to hear the door thump when it closes. If the door is not operating, find the door that controls the airflow across the heater core. If there is an electric motor that controls the door, tapping on it can sometimes make it work temporarily for testing purposes. A vacuum operated motor needs vacuum to work, so using a handheld vacuum pump for testing is usually recommended. If the vacuum motor does not hold vacuum, the diaphragm is leaking requiring replacement. To go deeper into diagnoses of the control head's function and diagnosis, specific vehicle repair manual information is needed. But hopefully the basics laid out in this article has helped to get you started on the right track.
About the Author. Hi I'm Dennis Bandy, thanks for reading about my background. I've been an ASE Master Auto Technician for over 23 years and have also sold professional auto tools since 2005. I am in a unique position to help readers on certain automotive repair related topics since I've had personal hands on experience with many auto repairs and automotive specialty tools. Let me just say, this is not a hobby for me, this is my business. Your feedback is really appreciated, if you thought this article was helpful or informative, please rate it below (thank you in advance).
HELPFUL CAR BUYING TOPICS:
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Subscribe To Car Buying Tips
Grand Am Stalling Answer
Half the battle when it comes to auto repair is having the right tools, that's why we have supplied name-brand automotive tools (like OTC, Makita, Ingersoll), shop supplies and automotive shop equipment at discount prices, at DenLors Tools since 2005, many readers put us on their favorites list and visit our site when auto specialty tool needs arise, we hope you do the same.
Ho-made soup sign
Originally uploaded by devonhaupt
Funny Road Signs crack me up! Anyone want some Ho-Made Soup?
This is incentives for 2009 Pontiac, Buick, GMC for the month of February 2009 including some 0% interest incentives. These rates and rebates are good thru March 3, 2009. If you have found a 2008 model, let me know because I am assuming most 2008 models are long gone.
Buick Enclave $750 customer cash, $1500 Bonus Cash or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. Buick Lacrosse $1000 Cust. Cash, $1000 Bonus Cash, or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. Buick Lucerne $1000 Cust. Cash. Pontiac G3 (COMING SOON TO DEALERSHIPS) $1000 bonus cash or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. Pontiac G5 $1500 Cust. Cash $1000 bonus Cash or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. Pontiac G6 has up to $2750 rebate or 0% interest on select models or 1.9% on 72 months. Pontiac G8 $1500 Cust Cash, $1500 Bonus Cash, or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% up to 72 months. Pontiac Solstice $500 Customer Cash. Pontiac Torrent $1000 Cust. Cash, $1000 Bonus Cash, or 0% for 60 months or 1.9 up to 72 months. Pontiac Vibe $500 Customer Cash. GMC Acadia $750 Cust. Cash $1500 Bonus Cash, or 0% for 60 months or 1.9% up to 72 months. GMC Canyon up to $1000 Customer Cash depending on model. GMC Envoy $3000 Customer Cash. GMC Sierra Extended Cab up to $4000 rebate or 0% interest on 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. GMC Sierra Regular Cab $1500 rebate. GMC Sierra Crew Cab $2500 rebate. All Regular GMC Yukons $3000 rebate or 0.0% interest for 60 months or 1.9% for 72 months. GMC Yukon XL has $1000 rebate.
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Everyone always asks whether to take the 0% interest rate or the rebate? The best suggestion to give customers is to consider how you have payed for your previous vehicles. If you are the type to pay them off early or pay extra, always take the rebate. If you pay for your vehicle over the length of the loan, take the 0% or low interest rate. You also have to look at the amount of the rebate and the amount you are financing. If you are financing a lower amount, it may be more benificial to take the rebate whereas if it is a larger purchase, 0% may be better. You also have to look at other factors as well. Are you trading a car you have negative equity? You can possibly finance your negative equity at 0% into your new loan. If you need some help, feel free to email me--my email is at the top of the page and I will get back to you as soon as I can. Please give me some details, like the type of car, trade, price, other factors that may influence the purchase. Make sure to Get A Quote. Quick.so you know you are paying the best possible price.
